SS15 PREVIEW| Rohmir

Known for her traditional combination of both academia and fashion, Olga Roh joins Fashion Scout once again this season to reveal Rohmir's SS15 collection. Having established a status as a luxury ready to-wear designer she continues to speak passionately about her designs, delving into her inspirations and goals for this season. Last year's collection flourished in mottled prints, cowl drapes and heavy embellishments, whilst this year Rohmir is set to inject a touch of Scottish aesthetic in keeping with her signature pleats and sleek silhouettes. 

Fashion Scout: What is the most appealing aspect of the industry? 

Rohmir: The possibility to express a vision in a real life and with real people. The inborn right to be creative.

FS: Where does the primary inspiration come from for your collections?

R: We are inspired from everything and literally nothing: visuals, feelings, books, places, love for cultures, souvenirs from travels - this is what inspires creative minds as they can't live without realisation of their dreams. My recent collection is inspired by Scotland. A place in which I discovered just a year ago, where we bought a beautiful refugium for the family. We travelled a lot through the country and met people, we saw the way in which they wore their clothes.

FS: What is the main focus for this year's SS15 collection?

R: This Scottish inspired  collection would be not possible without tartan in some form... So I created my own family tartan- this will be seen on some dresses in the collection. Typical Rohmir cuts used with the Scottish fabrics. Tradition faces the fashion mirror.

FS: Will we see any elements from previous collections this season?

R: I like to work with tweeds and with this collection we really have to work with tweeds! The shapes of the dresses are still sleek Italian elegance. We will also see godets, silk wraps, signature Rohmir-pleats and some vibrant colours...

FS: What are the main fabrics used in this year's collection? 

R: Silk and tweed - we are in the summer season, so we'll forget the cashmere for a while!

FS: Can you describe your overall aesthetic in three words? 

R: Nonchalance, elegance, confidence

FS: What does it mean to you to be a part of Fashion Scout? 

R: It's an excellent professional platform for designers.

FS: What does the future hold for Rohmir? 

R: An expansion within the market.

Rohmir's SS15 collection will be hitting the Fashion Scout London catwalk at 7:30 tomorrow evening. Be sure to check back to the blog throughout the week to keep up to date with everything as it happens.

By Joanna McCutcheon, Contributor, (@JoannaMcc_).

Images, courtesy of Rohmir. 

SS15 PREVIEW| Vita Gottlieb

A designer who takes her background in art and history and fuses it into fashion, Vita Gottlieb is inspired by the contradictions inherent in dominant strength and delicate sensitivity. Showcasing with Fashion Scout last season for AW14, her 'Caged' collection simultaneously cocooned and empowered the human form. In an exclusive interview and invitation to her studios a matter of days before her SS15 show, Gottlieb talks about her SS15 collection, artistic inspirations and the advice she'd give to upcoming designers.

Fashion Scout: What’s the story behind your SS15 collection?

Vita Gottlieb: It’s all about the underwater world, but as imagined from a futuristic coral reef, all fluid shadowy waters and layered, gossamer textures. I also looked at the sensation of floating – I love water and that feeling of buoyancy and freedom in liquid. The way you can lose your sense of gravity and go into another mode of being. Having always wanted to dive, I wanted to try to imagine and recreate that sense of wonder under the surface of the sea. Nature and our own evolution are always at the core of my collections.

FS: With a background in art and art history, it’s something you seem to feed into your work season after season. Are there any particular artworks or artists who’ve been a constant throughout this season’s collection?

VG: I’ve always loved botanical illustration and this season was looking at Ernst Haeckel, the nineteenth century illustrator, philosopher, professor and artist who made more than 100 intricate illustrations of sea-creatures. These are otherworldy and incredibly detailed and formed the basis for motifs in my digital prints this season. His use of colour is always threaded in in a subtle way and I wanted to mimic these tones of coral reef and microscopic sea-creatures.

FS: How do you feel this season is a progression from your last?

VG: It’s always a progression. I look back at past seasons and realize how differently I would do things now; re-imagine, re-construct, re-design – but this is all part of the creative process as spread over time. It’s always a re-evaluation of the previous season and the conversation keeps on going. I feel this season is lighter and more fluid.

FS: Do you have a favourite piece from your upcoming collection?

VG: Probably the white water-fern embroidered pieces.

FS: Having been a Fashion Fringe finalist, as well as previously showcasing with Fashion Scout during fashion week - what advice would you give to any upcoming designers?

VG: Make sure you have the tenacity to be able to continue season after season, the investment both financially and emotionally – this bit is incredibly tough, as you have to really work on those spreadsheets and do your forecasts fastidiously, and network like crazy to find that investment. You need the emotional support of close friends and family. Never let other people confuse your vision or your instinct. Listen, though, as when you’re on your own, you need the voices of others. Just trust yourself in the end.

FS: And lastly, how does it feel to be back showcasing with Fashion Scout this season?

Great! I’m really looking forward to this season’s show. It’s a brilliant opportunity and great to be part of it. 

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).

Images, courtesy of Vita Gottlieb.

SS15 PREVIEW| Mariana Jungmann

Beginning a career in law before falling into the world of fashion, Mariana Jungmann will be showcasing her SS15 collection on the Fashion Scout catwalk on Friday 12th September. Born in Goiania, Brazil, she moved to London in 2011 to start her studies at the London College of Fashion. Now graduated with a Masters from the same university, she uses her Brazilian roots and renaissance lace as the inspiration point to her signature aesthetic. In an interview with Fashion Scout, we talk to the designer of what we can expect to see from her upcoming SS15 offering.

Fashion Scout: Why did you decide to go into fashion?

Mariana Jungmann: My path to fashion wasn't a straight forward one. I went to law school first, where I had the time to learn a bit more about myself and what my passion really was. Law wasn't for me at all, but I always loved the way people express themselves with clothing. I find it brilliant how people's perceptions of others are affected by what they wear and how much you can boost someone's confidence just by creating this illusion that fashion creates. So, I decided to learn about this through fashion.

FS: You seem to take a lot of inspiration from lacework. What is it about it that you find so intriguing?

MJ: Lace has a very emotional meaning to me. As a child I used to spend a lot of time playing underneath my family's glass dining table and this table was usually covered in lace tablecloths. This lace “world” was my imaginary world and from it I've learnt to look at the real world from another perspective.

FS: What can we expect to see for SS15?

MJ: A lot of lace!

             

FS: What was the starting point of the collection?

MJ: I went to Brazil in the beginning of the year and there I went to a few different states. That got me thinking how women are so different from place to place, how full of paradoxes they are, how much their culture can affect them and how special each woman is in their own little way.

FS: And lastly, how does it feel to be showcasing your new collection with Fashion Scout?

    

MJ: I can't describe this feeling. I think as a woman, I am full of paradoxes myself. I feel super happy and proud, I feel challenged because I want to make it very special and at the same time I feel accomplished. It has been an amazing journey to make and showcase this collection and I hope everybody loves it as much as I do.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Videos, courtesy of Mariana Jungmann.

SS15 PREVIEW| Ming

A brand focused on contemporary womenswear and known for their attention to sharp detail, clean lines and subtle manipulation of textures, London based Ming will be the first designer to take to the Fashion Scout catwalk next week. Having curated a strong aesthetic, wearable garments and clean cut pieces bring a fresh take to design season after season. In a preview of what we can expect to see for SS15, Ming talks what makes a strong aesthetic and showcasing with Fashion Scout. 

Fashion Scout: How would you describe the Ming aesthetic?

Ming: A mixture of clean silhouette and complex fabrications. 

FS: What’s the story behind your SS15 collection?

M: The collection is inspired by the novel "Never Let Me Go" by Kazuo Ishiguro. From my interpretation, it is about daily lives and encounters, numerous incidents which occur and the inevitable, death. 

FS: How is this collection a progression from your past collections?

M: This collection is more minimalistic on the surface yet contains complex inner constructions.

FS: You seem to build a very streamlined aesthetic through pieces that have clean lines and silhouettes. What is it for you that makes a strong garment?

M: At this stage, I still think of myself as a story teller. My collections reflect my thoughts in different stages of life and I want them to be as honest as possible.

FS: How do you go about designing a collection? How does it start and progress to the final product?

M: I start by pulling inspiration from different sources of research, I then start sourcing fabrics, designing and sampling all at the same time because of limited time and then of course the collection is manufactured.  

FS: How does it feel to be showcasing with Fashion Scout again this season?

M: I am looking forward to it very much! There are different ways of presenting a collection and I think live show/presentation is the best way for the story to come across.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, courtesy of Ming.

SS15 PREVIEW| FAD

On Tuesday 16th September, the last day of our fashion showcase, FAD will not only see 23 young people from London and Manchester take their designs to the catwalk, but will be celebrating 10 years of their Fashion Futures project.

FAD, or Fashion Awareness Direct, aim to bridge the gap between careers and the creative industries for young people - regardless of circumstance or background. Providing hands-on training, industry experience and opportunities to individuals, the support and mentoring FAD offer is invaluable.

“FAD have so many professionals coming in, helping us and giving their knowledge," says Shalom, last year's Fashion Futures finalist. "It has taught me to be more ambitious – in order to achieve your goals you have to think big and be prepared to work hard.”

   

Working closely with key names in the fashion industry, knowledge and confidence about career pathways and employment opportunities becomes a key part. 

"FAD have been showcasing with Fashion Scout since 2008," says Maria Alvarez, Executive Director of FAD. "For us it's a perfect fit. Fashion Scout's commitment to nurturing emerging designers works perfectly with FAD's aim to support young people from diverse and disadvantaged backgrounds into industry. Being given a platform at Fashion Scout is simply life changing for many of the young people we work with."

Be sure to check back to the blog throughout Fashion Week for show reviews, as well as exclusive interviews and backstage coverage and as it happens.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, courtesy of FAD.

SS15 PREVIEW| Dioralop

Andreja Bistricic and Maja Merlic are the Croatian duo behind the edgy fashion label Dioralop. With qualifications in textiles and technology, womenswear design and experience interning at Alexander McQueen studio, Andreja’s work is complimented by Maja’s architectural background. The pair are best known for their texturally rich and graphically printed constructions. The Dioralop founders have offered us a sneak preview of their upcoming collection and a behind the scenes look at their work.

Fashion Scout: What can we expect to see in the SS15 Dioralop collection?

Dioralop: Our collections are always inspired by Polaroid pictures which were created by intentional spills of chemicals and by exposing them to different temperatures. This way the pictures become different colours. Play off of Polaroids is our signature in every collection as we think this technique has inexhaustible number of the most unpredictable colour combinations. This season our prints are a bit different. We lost colours and patterns are the only thing left. Again, we are playing with losing the difference between genders and androgyny, so you can expect to see a few boys walking down the catwalk.  

FS: How would you describe this season's narrative/themes?

D: We have two main themes this season. Our first sources of inspiration are the original skinheads of the 1960s. The skinhead movement itself was started by working-class youths in England. Instead of opting for the flamboyant, fancy-dress escapism of the Mod and Teddy Boy youth cults before them, the skinheads embraced working-class fashion: cropped hair, meant-to-last shoes and boots, white T-shirts and worn Levis. They also borrowed from their working-class West Indian neighbours, adopting trilby hats and crombie jackets, peg-legged striped suits and a love for ska, the Jamaican music that mixed Latin beats and American jazz melodies and was the forerunner of modern reggae. The original skinheads loved to dance to these ska beats, often frequented all-black nightclubs and had, by the end of the decade, several Jamaican "skinhead reggae" records and bands they loyally supported.

Our second source of inspiration comes from head-to-toe tattooed women of the 1920s.

According to scientists, the earliest record of tattoos was found in 1991 on the frozen remains of a Copper Age 'Iceman' dating from about 3300 B.C., the art of tattooing has been practiced in Japan - for beautification, magic, and to mark criminals - since around the fifth century B.C. By the end of the Twenties, American circuses employed over 300 people with full-body tattoos who earned up to $200 per week.

FS: Describe briefly the design process from conception to show day.

D: Every season we experiment with Polaroid prints, and we never know where it is going to end. The same principle is used until the final product. Sometimes we like to surprise ourselves. We are just spectators of our own work and our design process - which is fun!

FS: Is there any stand out piece in the collection that you're most excited about?

D: We are definitely excited about digitally printed pieces complemented with embroidery.

FS: What kind of woman do you design for?

D: Uncompromising, aware and individual.

FS: What is the most exciting thing about showcasing with Fashion Scout?
D: Fashion Scout platform gives great opportunity to young designers around the world to showcase their collections to fashion insiders. We have been a part of Fashion Scout Paris showroom for two seasons now and we met amazing people and made great connections, so we are really thrilled to have an opportunity to have a catwalk show to bring our work to the next level.

By Lia Stokes, Contributor, (@LiaStokes).

Images, courtesy of Dioralop.

SS15 PREVIEW| One to Watch Keiko Nishiyama

Womenswear designer and London College of Fashion graduate, Keiko Nishiyama, creates highly ornate fashion and textile design which combine unexpected and philosophical elements of Europe and Tokyo. Favouring bold digital prints within her work, Nishiyama has been named a One to Watch by this season's Fashion Scout judging panel. We caught up with her ahead of her SS15 catwalk showcase to find out what we can expect to see this season.

Fashion Scout: What has inspired your SS15 collection?

Keiko Nishiyama: This season I have predominantly been inspired by Aquariums. I was also inspired by Wunderkammer, a collective culture also known as ‘Cabinets of Curiosities’. This interesting, if slightly quirky culture, looks to the idea of museums and rooms being filled with historical relics and antiquities with each room being produced by peoples different curiosities, I have combined these two themes for my SS15 collection. The model's aesthetic within this collection is mermaid-like and is inspired by the film ‘Night and Tide’ as directed by Curtis Harrington.

FS: Can you tell us about your design aesthetic?

KN: I am intrigued by beauty and fantasy. When I see women I look to their personal and individual charm rather than just seeing their immediate aesthetic beauty. When thinking about my design and print work, I strive for it not only to look aesthetically beautiful but also to have a somewhat bizarre element of intrigue to it. I like it when things look slightly mad! To me this is beauty. When I design, I always think about the combination of the detail and the fabrics that I use as I like them to clash in an almost unexpected manner in order to achieve my desired unconventional aesthetic.

FS: What fabrics and techniques have you used to help to create your vision in your SS15 collection?

KN: I am dedicated to the use of digital print, yet I have also opted for hand drawn print for SS15 as well. This season I have definitely favoured more delicate fabric choices and a deeper toned colour palette.

FS: How does it feel to be named a One to Watch?

KN: I am very pleased and excited to be named a One to Watch! It is an amazing opportunity and I will be showing my first collection since graduating from LCF in 2013 so I am very excited to be doing so as a One to Watch.

FS: What can we expect to see from your brand in the future?

KN: I feel that the strongest and most unique point of difference for my brand is my print design so I intend to continue to develop upon that in future collections. I am always keen to portray a feeling of madness and obsession through my print design. With this in mind, I am aware that the appeal of my work does depend of consumer and commercial taste, however, I do feel that my printed garments can also be added to more minimally styled outfits to provide an accent to each individuals own personal style. I am also designing a fashion accessories line, with garments such as tights which can be easily integrated into any look. As a woman myself I always consider and take into account how a garment can be worn and styled for everyday life.

FS: What are you excited about us seeing in your new SS15 collection?

KN: I am excited about you seeing the evolution from my first collection which looked at obsession through floral design. For this season, my fundamental concept is similar however I am going to convey another dimension of obsession. You will see the same direction within my print design but with a new, fresh and just as wacky twist to it for my SS15 collection.

By Charlotte Muscat, Contributor, (CharlotteLM9).
Images, courtesy of the designer.

SS15 PREVIEW| Hema Kaul

Hema Kaul is a woman of many talents; taking on family businesses of hotels, construction, water development and everything in between, Hema couldn’t sideline her true love of fashion design. Her vintage inspired collections add modernity to traditionally feminine designs, exquisite fabrics influenced by her travels worldwide. Showing with Fashion Scout for her third season, we chat to the designer in an exclusive preview to find out more about her upcoming collection.

Fashion Scout: What were your key inspirations for SS15?

Hema Kaul: I would say retro, vintage fashion moments from past decades, with a tropical twist.

FS: The sketches you sent over have a very feminine look.

HK: Yes, they are very feminine. It’s my natural flair for understanding the female form that ensures this collection will be a future classic.

FS: In terms of the detailing on the sketches you sent over, can we expect digital prints or more couture embellishments and embroidery?

HK: A combination of both embroidery and digital prints.

Fashion Scout: Does your upcoming collection have a name?

HK: No, not yet...

FS: Do you design with particular occasions or specific women in mind?

HK: My clothes are designed keeping in mind the women who are confident to fulfil their given responsibilities, but never stop seizing opportunities to become better and pursue what they truly love.

FS: How do you begin the process of designing a brand new collection?

HK: It starts with a lot of research, sourcing and sampling.

FS: What are the main benefits of working with Fashion Scout for you?

HK: It gives my work an international platform.

FS: What or who are you looking forward to this season at Fashion Scout?

HK: This is my third season at Fashion Scout and every year it just gets better and becomes a whole new experience. I’m looking forward to seeing Little Shilpa’s presentation this year. 

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).
Images, courtesy of Hema Kaul.

SS15 PREVIEW| One to Watch Min Wu

Womenswear designer Min Wu has gone from strength to strength since graduating from the London College of Fashion in 2013. Wu’s collections have been met with much acclaim with her sculpted silhouettes and digitally printed gradients of colour making for a mesmerising signature style. 

With Min Wu being named a One to Watch by this season's Fashion Scout panel we caught up with her to find out the inspirations behind her latest SS15 collection and what we can expect to see from her when her pieces hit the catwalk in September.

Fashion Scout: What has inspired your SS15 collection?

Min Wu: For my SS15 collection I began by looking at the concept of human connection and how we as human beings perceive ourselves and our actions. I thought about the notion of the self. I find it interesting that, for example, if a person is driving a car and the car hits another person, it is a human response to say ‘I hit a person’ so with this as a starting point I explored how people describe themselves in relation to their actions. I was also inspired by our connection to the world through vision, we see images from cameras everyday and everywhere so ultimately our eyes have the capability to be everywhere albeit metaphorically. In terms of fabric manipulation I am inspired by looking at the things that people attach to their bodies, such as piercings. I explored the way in which skin stretches and changes when it is tattooed, with this in mind I have chosen to play with fabrics in that same way throughout this collection and have used them to express a person's feelings and emotions.

FS: Can you tell us about your design aesthetic?

MW: My design aesthetic has continued on from last season and hopefully grown in the same direction. I took my last collection as a starting point for my SS15 collection but made this one a lot more summery. The fabrics which I use in my designs allow for my aesthetic to show a contrast between structure and fluidity, creating strong shapes throughout my collection. In terms of colour palette I always do my fabric research six months before each collection launches. We start with sourcing fabrics and choosing colours and then begin to make samples using different techniques. I really care about attention to detail so my aesthetic is always very clean and finished. Structure is a really important aspect of my design aesthetic, and the silhouettes in my collection change a lot throughout the process.

FS: How has your collection evolved throughout the design process?

MW: It has changed a lot! As you go further along the design process, you uncover so many beautiful things which you could never have imagined in the beginning and you tend to change your mind a lot. My vision of my collection has changed since my starting point. I start by taking one direction and through that I tend to see more beauty in other things so rather than having a finished product that completely reflects my original inspiration I instead see the evolution of my collection.

FS: What fabrics and techniques you have used to help to create your vision in your SS15 collection?

MW: It is very important to me to ensure that the finishing on all of my garments is perfectly faultless and so it is important that I utilise techniques which will help to make my pieces look good. I work very closely with my machinist and we discuss the ways in which we can manipulate each fabric to look the exact way that we have envisioned it to be within the collection. All of the little details are so important to the overall continuity of the collection.

FS: How does it feel to be named a One to Watch?

MW: Very exciting! When I got the call I was really, really happy about it! It's a great opportunity and I am excited to see who else is named a One to Watch!

FS: What can we expect to see from Min Wu in the future?

MW: After showcasing at Fashion Scout London, I will be going to Paris to show my collection at the Fashion Scout Showrooms which I am very excited about! We also have a fashion event which we will be showing at in Beijing in October and another event hosted by Shanghai Fashion Week in collaboration with the British Fashion Council. They held the same event last year with another very famous Chinese boutique so I am very excited to be a part of it this year. Another project that I will be working on has been inspired by one of my best friends getting married. I am working on a bridal wear project in which I hope to create a more fashionable and less conventional take on bridal wear.

FS: What are you excited about us seeing in your new SS15 collection?

MW: We are working on shoes for the new season which is great I am not a footwear designer but I love shoes. We have found a shoe sampling studio and they really understand my vision which is good so I am really excited about that.

Interview by Charlotte Muscat, Contributor, (@CharlotteLM9)
Images, by Hannah Farrell, (@HFazzzz).

SS15 PREVIEW| NATALIEBCOLEMAN

A graduate of the Limerick School of Art & Design, Central St Martins and having gained experience in places among the likes of New York and Iceland, Natalie Coleman's design background is certainly impressive. Showing her SS15 collection with us this season, Coleman has already been featured in the likes of Harpers Bazaar, Company and Marie Claire. In an introduction to the designer previews that will feature on the Fashion Scout blog over the coming weeks, she gives us a preview of what we can expect to see in September.

Fashion Scout: How would you describe the NATALIEBCOLEMAN aesthetic?

Natalie Coleman: Feminine, romantic, flirtatious, fun. Full of gorgeous prints and beautiful fabrics. When I'm asked in interviews who the NATALIEBCOLEMAN customer is, my answer is simple and always the same. She is the coolest girl in the room.

FS: You’ve interned for a number of labels in a number of amazing places. How do these places you’ve visited and where you’ve worked inspire your work?

NC: New York is always one of my favourite places to go and the label is just launching there this season so I love having more excuses to trip over. Working for ThreeAsFour was hectic but so much fun, they had a massive glitter ball and shared my love of Dolly so all good! Iceland was beautiful, so quiet and stunning. I spent so much time in the evenings developing print ides and sketching as it was light almost 24 hours a days! 

FS: What, without giving too much away, can we expect to see from you for SS15?

NC: ‘Be Still My Bleeding Heart’ is dedicated to my Mother, Bridie, as this year is her 20th Anniversary. One of my main inspirations came from the Sacred Heart and from this I painted a rose with black ink lines falling from it. This then developed the drawings into prints that feel fragile, feminine and evocative but playful too. The SS15 collection is beautiful, romantic and light, made with luxurious printed and textured fabrics and amazingly detailed finish. I wanted a collection full of pieces that my customers can put on and feel instantly good in, knowing that she looks cool, effortless and elegant. 

FS: Are there any particular themes or ideas that you carry across all of your seasons?

NC: I always have a strong narrative. Each collection is like a diary page for me so I get a lot of inspiration from mine and my friends love affairs which helps bring a quirky light edge to the collection. We are obsessed with the best quality, cut, drape and finish and we generally develop our story with print each season. 

FS: What do you believe are the key elements that combine to create a quality, standout collection? 

NC: I think it has to come from a place of truth, something that is unique and fresh to the label. 

FS: You’ve sent through some illustrations and mood boards. How important are these to your creation process?

NC: I always start with writing my story and then developing print ideas and shapes - so super important.

FS: How do you feel to be showcasing with Fashion Scout this season, in the city of London? 

NC: We are very excited and feel it is a perfect time and space to show NATALIEBCOLEMAN.

Interview by Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, courtesy of Natalie Coleman.