INTERVIEW | Mariana Jungmann

We caught up with Mariana Jungmann in the aftermath of her AW15 Fashion Scout catwalk to find out what has inspired her latest collection..

Hi Mariana, can you tell us about the inspiration behind your AW15 collection and what has inspired your aesthetic?

When I start designing a collection, I always think about the woman that I am designing for and she is full of paradoxical qualities. For me, one of the biggest paradox’s is the state of being awake and being asleep, so I found out the scientific term to describe the moment when wakefulness and sleep meet and its called hypnagogia. I had never heard of this term until about six months ago! I began studying it and discovered that this particular moment is filled with textures and feelings until you reach that moment of peace. I tried to represent that in my collection because my woman is very paradoxical, she is very strong, she is sharp but she is also delicate so I tried to put that all together. With this in mind, I played with masculine and feminine tailoring, combining wool with pinstripes and the delicate lace along with the leather blister to create my collection.

Can you tell us more about the leather ‘blister’ effect which you have created?

Yes, instead of embossing the leather we made it puff out, I’ve been working on it for a long time! The pattern created on the leather with this technique is my lace pattern.

How do you feel that your designs have developed since your last collection?

I think that this collection is more mature, just like the brand, the brand is maturing and developing so this is a reflection of that.

What do you think of Fashion Scout as a platform for progression?

Fashion Scout is great, it gives us great support. It is very good in that it gives new designers a space and a platform. I hope to come back next season!

#FashionScoutAW15

Charlotte Muscat

@CharlotteLM9

BACKSTAGE | Mariana Jungmann

Fantastic sneak peaks Backstage at Mariana Jungmann for Fashion Scout AW15.

COLLECTION | Mariana Jungmann

We loved the Mariana Jungmann show earlier today at #FashionScoutAW15. Check this out!

London College of Fashion alumni Mariana Jungmann has made a triumphant return to her second season at Fashion Scout with her AW15 collection, Hypnagogia. Taking to the catwalk, Jungmann’s collection was everything we expected it to be and more. Putting a new twist on her signature Renaissance lace, Jungmann introduces an intricate stitching technique, creating a subtly textured, fluid aesthetic.

Jungmann explores the state of paralysis between sleep and wakefulness throughout her collection, conveying this sense through the juxtaposition of striking laser cut leathers with softer styled leather whilst simultaneously contrasting sharp tailored lines with soft billowing trapeze silhouettes. Rather inventively, Jungmann has devised a unique technique whereby she has created a reversed embossed effect on leather pieces throughout her collection, this method of ‘depressing’ the leather with soft textured imprints becomes representative of the status between a conscious and unconscious mind.

Jungmann applies tailored lines to feminine silhouettes throughout her AW15 collection offering a sense of androgyny in key pieces, whilst natural biodegradable materials, including cashmere, silk, lambskin and merino wool form the basis of her looks. Finally, a muted colour palette of teal, black and grey perfectly complement the collections soft, tactile aesthetic beautifully encompassing a feeling of hypnagogia.

#FashionScoutAW15

Charlotte Muscat

@CharlotteLM9

Photography by Florian Schadauer

on Twitter @floriansdr

Mariana Jungmann returns at our February catwalk show!

Brazilian designer Mariana Jungman returns to Fashion Scout AW15, having shown her debut with us last season. The designer's MA Graduate collection was one of ten to be shown during London Fashion Week in 2014, building on her eponymous women's wear label in 2013.

Jungmann's collections are built around hand-made materials from her native Brazil, fusing florals and lace with the values of haute couture. Her designs are modern and intriguing, with the materials used providing more resistant pieces than typical fabrics.

In her brief time as a designer Jungmann's designs have featured in numerous renowned publications including Vogue, iD and Glamour.

The designer's collection will be taking the catwalk from 20^th-24^th February 2015 at the Freemasons’ Hall in Convent Garden.

Follow us on @fashionscout

#FashionScoutAW15

AW15 PROVISIONAL CATWALK SCHEDULE REVEALED!

It’s time to get ready for the most exciting Fashion Scout yet, as we reveal our Provisional AW15 Catwalk Schedule. 

Fashion Scout will return to our London home at the Freemasons’ Hall in Covent Garden from the 20^th – 24^th of February with a packed schedule of Catwalk shows, exhibitions and events! 

Exclusively showcasing the best pioneering talent from across the globe, Fashion Scouts’ AW15 lineup includes more than 50 visionary designers from around the world hand picked by a top industry Selection Panel.

Highlights of the schedule include Friday’s Merit Award winner James Kelly, the RCA Graduate who has already received a flurry of press attention. James Kelly will be sponsored by Fashion Scout to produce his first ever London Fashion Week catwalk show. Already a favourite of Hilary Alexander OBE, Vogue UK Features Editor Jessica Bumpus and Sara Maino, Senior Editor at Vogue Italia – we expect a packed FROW.

Also presenting their debut London Fashion Week collections are designers Angel Chen, J Moon, Kim Stevenson and Minju Kim, who together form Fashion Scout’s highly anticipated Ones to Watch show on Saturday 21^st February.

Amongst those returning to the catwalk are legendary Fashion Designer Pam Hogg, SS15 Ones to Watch designer Youjia Jin, CFE Pioneer Mariana Jungmann, in addition to former Merit Award winners Gyo Yuni KImchoe and Xiao Li.

Also running from the 20^th – 23^rd of February, Fashion Scout will curate an exhibition of exciting emerging talent, including designers from around the world; Clio Peppiat, GF Hawthorne, Niro Wang and Typical Freaks.

The full schedule and designers profiles can be viewed on the Fashion Scout website here. 

Follow us on @fashionscout

#FashionScoutAW15

EXCLUSIVE | Mariana Jungmann Joins the CFE's Fashion Pioneers

The Centre For Fashion Enterprise's Pioneer Programme is designed to nurture emerging London-based designer labels, identifying and providing solutions for some of the issues that may be stifling growth in the early stages of business.

Fashion Scout designer, Mariana Jungmann, who debuted her collection at Fashion Scout London in an exciting multi-sensory catwalk show, is the latest to join the best new designers accepted onto the CFE Pioneer Programme.

Mariana Jungmann, will follow in the footsteps of CFE Pioneer Alumni; Simone Rocha, Steven Tai, Haizen Wang and T Lipop amongst others. She will be joined by Fashion East designer Louise Alsop and new talents Faustine Steinmetz, Adrien Sauvage, Liam Hodges and Studio XO.

Of being inducted into the Programme Mariana says; "London is one of the most inspiring places I've ever been, more than that it is the place to be if you want to grow a business. The Pioneer Programme has helped designers that I look up to, to become the huge success they are now. I can't wait for it to start so we can venture into this new journey."

PARIS SHOWROOMS| The Art of Handcraft SS15

This season, Fashion Scout Paris returns to its showroom in the heart of Marais. We are celebrating the talent of 22 exciting new UK and International designers across our two floor showroom space.

SS15 sees a focus on the return to the art of handcraft and traditional process. Today we feature designers Cats Brothers, Le Photographe and Mariana Jungmann whose work all interprets this theme in their own way.

CATS BROTHERS

Cats Brothers where founded and handmade in London and are a brand heavily influenced by street culture and music. They bring a crafty twist to fun and wearable streetwear with the addition of embroideries and knitwear panels. We spoke to Lindsay, the designer behind the brand:

What inspired your SS15 collection?

This collection is inspired by the idea of dressing up, disguises and joke shops. It is very playful. I always tend to make my collections fun and playful, it’s kind of my style!

I know it is hard for a designer to pick but what are your favourite pieces from this collection?

My favourite pieces are always sweatshirts and the t-shirts. They always tend to be the staple pieces of my collections.

How do you design and develop your collections?

This is actually my first season when I develop my own prints which has been very exciting. Overall, more thought is put on texture, prints, embellishments, technique of fabric and generally whatever is happening on the fabric rather than the shape.  So far all production is kept in Hackney, London and I hope I can keep it that way. Being a knitwear designer and focusing on the good quality of knits I would love to be able to produce the knitted pieces in Scotland.

Do you like the idea of adding accessories in your collection to complement the outfits?

Yes, this season we have a few clutch bags with exciting patterns. The idea behind having the clutch bag is that it acts as an additional layer to the outfits. I love clashing patterns so someone can easily add a striking patterned bag to add excitement in the outfit.

MARIANA JUNGMANN

Brazilian designer, Mariana Jungmann has always been inspired by renaissance lace since a small child. The particular shapes of the lace help to identify it as traditionally Brazilian, used in many households as tablecloths and to decorate the home.

How do you manufacture your clothes?

I design the lace and then I send it to a community in Brazil, which produce the lace. Then this gets shipped to the UK, where I assemble the garments and it is afterwards produced in Europe.

Is ethical fashion an important aspect of your brand?

I support the lace making community in Brazil, not only financially but I also teach them some techniques that I know, which they can use when producing the lace. I also believe in slow fashion and how it can impact the world. I only use natural fibres since they are more biodegradable.

What message do you want to put forward through your brand?

I want to say to women that they can still be feminine and be strong. You don’t have to wear a suit to prove your power. Looking feminine, vulnerable and sexy doesn’t reduce your strength.

LE PHOTOGRAPHE

Le Photographe defines its style as being a fusion of modern embroidery techniques, graffism and embellishment within draped forms and structural cutting. Their pieces include intense sections of hand embroidery.

What is your brand about?

Le Photographe is about creative cutting. The designer, Chris, has been pattern making for a very long time so the techniques and the shapes used in the designs are a very important aspect of the brand. The pieces are feminine, wearable and portray beautiful embroidery.

What sort of techniques do you use in order to produce the garments?

Everything is handmade. So techniques used are hand-weaving, hand-beading and fabric manipulation. We want to bring luxurious techniques to simpler fabrics, in order to bring out the best of every fabric. Some garments in this collection have taken numerous hours to hand-make. For example, the silver duchess gown took 2200 man-hours to produce!

What is the concept behind the SS15 collection?

Nature and fresh colours are the theme of this collection. The prints are mainly inspired by magnolia flowers and they are portrayed in various different ways according to the technique used in each garment.

Cats Brothers, Mariana Jungmann and Le Photographe are on show as part of Fashion Scout’s Paris Showroom. You can view their collections at 23, Rue Du Roi De Sicile, 75004 until the 30^th September 2014. Opening hours are: 10am till 7pm daily, closing at 5pm on Tuesday 30^th.

INTERVIEW| Mariana Jungmann

Fresh off the Fashion Scout SS15 catwalk, Mariana Jungmann tells us about the inspirations behind her ethereal collection, how she found working with print and her love of London’s creative collaborations. From conception to completion, Jungmann’s vision came to life in a breath of fresh air, soft tailoring and oceanic-inspired colour palette.

Tell us about the inspiration behind the collection?

This collection was inspired by the woman that I design for. They are usually very strong women, and I started thinking about the paradox that a woman has; so we may be strong, but we may be very soft inside, although we can look very sexy and fierce, and made of steel. 

So I started thinking about this woman and I got to Yemanja, who is a goddess. She is one of the most powerful goddesses. She is the figure of the mother, so she’s quite protective. I took all of my colour palette from Yemanja - her colour is blue, so we have this baby blue. She is goddess of the sea so we went to the beach and got this sand white and green moss and we developed this shade of grey that’s exclusive for us and reminded me of the stones. 

Do you think fashion is important for making a woman become who she wants to be?

No, because I think that women already are what they want to be. Fashion is a way for her to show the world what she is.

Is print something you’ve worked with a lot of in your career?

No, actually I work with lace, and I started to obsess about how I could translate my lace in different ways. The print in this collection is done in three different ways. It came from an obsession. This is my first time taking print on, and I learnt a lot.

Did you collaborate with a lot of other creatives for this collection?

Yes, the accessories are from Jankele and they sent those pieces from New York. We got Crystal Cult to make some exclusive sunglasses, Phyllis from Face Lace did these amazing stickers. We had Ruth Heenan do the shoes, with a splash of water on the heel. Then there was jewellery. We’ve definitely been collaborating. 

This is one of the things that I love about London and love about fashion – if you have a good vision, then people join you and make something unbelievable. I was quite lucky to have Magdalena Marciniak as my stylist. She was able to transform my vision out of my head into reality. This wouldn’t look half as good without her.

How have you found showing with Fashion Scout?

I love it. Is there any other way to say it? I love it! I was so thrilled. I was on vacation in Brazil and got back to London the day before the deadline, so I did my application during the night just thought ‘let’s do this, let’s work’. I was thrilled to be selected and be offered a catwalk show in my very first season.

As for the future, do you have any plans for next season?

I do.

That you can tell us?

I think you should just wait for the unexpected.


By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).
Photo by Elizabeth Hodson.

SS15 PREVIEW| Mariana Jungmann

Beginning a career in law before falling into the world of fashion, Mariana Jungmann will be showcasing her SS15 collection on the Fashion Scout catwalk on Friday 12th September. Born in Goiania, Brazil, she moved to London in 2011 to start her studies at the London College of Fashion. Now graduated with a Masters from the same university, she uses her Brazilian roots and renaissance lace as the inspiration point to her signature aesthetic. In an interview with Fashion Scout, we talk to the designer of what we can expect to see from her upcoming SS15 offering.

Fashion Scout: Why did you decide to go into fashion?

Mariana Jungmann: My path to fashion wasn't a straight forward one. I went to law school first, where I had the time to learn a bit more about myself and what my passion really was. Law wasn't for me at all, but I always loved the way people express themselves with clothing. I find it brilliant how people's perceptions of others are affected by what they wear and how much you can boost someone's confidence just by creating this illusion that fashion creates. So, I decided to learn about this through fashion.

FS: You seem to take a lot of inspiration from lacework. What is it about it that you find so intriguing?

MJ: Lace has a very emotional meaning to me. As a child I used to spend a lot of time playing underneath my family's glass dining table and this table was usually covered in lace tablecloths. This lace “world” was my imaginary world and from it I've learnt to look at the real world from another perspective.

FS: What can we expect to see for SS15?

MJ: A lot of lace!

             

FS: What was the starting point of the collection?

MJ: I went to Brazil in the beginning of the year and there I went to a few different states. That got me thinking how women are so different from place to place, how full of paradoxes they are, how much their culture can affect them and how special each woman is in their own little way.

FS: And lastly, how does it feel to be showcasing your new collection with Fashion Scout?

    

MJ: I can't describe this feeling. I think as a woman, I am full of paradoxes myself. I feel super happy and proud, I feel challenged because I want to make it very special and at the same time I feel accomplished. It has been an amazing journey to make and showcase this collection and I hope everybody loves it as much as I do.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Videos, courtesy of Mariana Jungmann.

NEWS| Dioralop, Mariana Jungmann, Bernard Chandran and Rohmir Confirmed For Fashion Scout SS15

Fashion Scout are pleased to announce the addition of more designers to our London schedule.

With the Fashion Scout SS15 schedule already being filled with the careful selection of UK and International designers joining the September showcase, including Apu Jan, Little Shilpa and Vita Gottlieb, we are able to confirm more designers:

Dioralop

Mariana Jungmann

Bernard Chandran

Rohmir

Dioralop, brainchild of design duo Andreja Bistricic and Maja Merlic is a Croatian label based in Zagreb. Dioralop collections are inspired by polaroid pictures, composed from spilt chemicals which are exposed to different temperatures creating unique and innovative patterned prints. Bistricic's eye for cut and experimentation with deconstruction perfectly combines with Merlic's print and textile expertise as a formidable design team.

Mariana Jungmann is a new addition to the Fashion Scout line-up. Moving in London in 2011 to start a graduate diploma from the London College of Fashion, she continued and completed her MA before setting up her own label. Inspired by Renaissance lace for its role in her life from infancy, the geometric and floral shapes taught her to embrace the world from a different perspective. 

Bernard Chandran translated an aesthetic clearly harnessed in menswear to create sophisticated, feminine silhouettes. The show opened with the illusion of a three piece suit which revealed itself to be an elegant all-in-one. “It’s all about the one look” explains Chandran, “the woman could be running the country or being a housewife… The garment speaks for itself”. 

Rohmir presented with us during the SS14 season, in which "a classic silhouette was the cornerstone of Rohmir SS14. Femininity and fierceness were juxtaposed through animalistic prints and heavy embellishments that accentuated the hourglass figure. Plunging necklines, perfect evening wear and midnight hues closed the show to rapturous applause.

Keep up to date with everything Fashion Scout in-between now and fashion week on our Twitter and Instagram, as well as our blog.

Images, courtesy of the designers.