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L-R: Caryn Franklin, James Brown, Peaches Geldof, Louise Roe
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Images: Kristen Blow
Tuesday, 23 February 2010
William Tempest
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The hottest ticket in town was this evening was William Tempest at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Having dressed the likes of Emma Watson and Victoria Beckham since winning the Merit Award for AW09, his third and final sponsored show saw the front row packed out by fashion cognoscenti such as Peaches Geldof, celeb stylist James Brown, Vogue’s Jessica Bumpus, Caryn Franklin, Sophie Anderton and Elle columnist and presenter Louise Roe.
Entitled “Under the Abaya” and inspired by Islamic architecture and the legend of the Queen of Sheba journeying to Israel, the show opened to the eerie strains of wind whistling across desert dunes.
The initial palette of midnight blue and black was creatively worked in contrasting geometric panels of textured fabrics - matt leather with soft stone-washed silks and glamorous double duchess satins. The mood suddenly changed as a pale gold lame dress appeared, followed by shades of aqua, emerald and sand. Highlights included a simple floor length column gown of contrasting black and sand.
For AW10, Tempest’s signature manipulation of fabric channelled the architecture of Rafael Vinoly and Tom Wright, designer of Dubai’s iconic Burj Al Arab Hotel – think sweeping, sculptural, clean lines. These could be seen in clearly in oversized shoulder details and dresses with an exaggerated hourglass silhouette created by nipped in waists and lantern shaped skirts. Hems grazed toned thighs or were floor sweeping (or both as featured on the dress pictured top), perfect for red carpets and stealing men’s hearts.
Words: Hannah Kane
Images: David Coleman
Fashion Film Club
Last night I entered a dark room and took a seat in front of the projector to see The Fashion Film Club Presentation. I am sure you will remember our shout out to find designers with a fashion film. Lara from the club was inundated and a selection of videos previewed in the presentation room. I love the collision of fashion and film and enjoy watching the clothes and models move to music which sum up the tone of the collection perfectly.
The first film by menswear label Cottweiler aka Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell
Ada Zanditon’s film is shot in black and white, a personal favourite of mine. A large spotlight shone on a solitary model waving a human sized jet black flag. The flapping movement in a grainy out of focus shot is just beautiful. I can only presume the action is inspired by bats which her AW10 collection is based on. A large rope dangles down the centre of the light and the image of a model swinging around it is repeated across the screen. The kaleidoscopic monochrome pattern where moving faces, rope and body merge into each other.
Marko Mitanvokski showed the other black and white film featuring his gothic black corset paneled in lace, pleated neck ruffs and long pointed finger patent gloves. Seeing them move is just fascinating to watch, the antler hair however stays static, along with the models deadpan expression. A heavy beating drum with the eerie sound of a violin on top, the model pops to the beat. The video has been edited to repeat and skip seconds of the film to create jumpy movements. The haunting image of blood dripping from her mouth is the final shot.
Lidja and Dejan’s film shows a cropped shot of a model in full colour, her movements slowed down and faded into each other, her arms move to cover her face. Every actions speed is edited to work into the timing of the music. The model in Lidja and Dejan's ruched creation is stood centre with her body repeated four times around in a split screen, the pillared vase looking objects frame the stop start juddering dance.
The imagery in the last film on show was stunning. An endless marsh of water with floating islands of turf, cracked dry earth an eagle in a tree. Viewing through a spy hole telescope which narrowed into the centre of the screen. Flocks of birds flying in formation across the sky through bursts of sunlight. Not so much coverage of the clothing, a model in a long cream jacket stood in the woods, auburn hair flicking with every tilt of her head. Faced forward you can see a band of shiny metal masking her face. The unsettling imagery of the fast motion flapping movement looks like scuttling creatures from a Hitchcock film. They rapidly join to make a large sphere hovering over the beautiful scenery. Shot by Mikey Ashley and clothing by Milena Silvano.
Posted by Emma Drinnan
Show us your goody bag - William Tempest
Coming to William Tempest? There’s a whole lot of swag in that bag! In honour of Tempest dressing Anika Noni Rose for the premiere of The Princess and The Frog, Disney has provided fabulous dolls *girly squeal*.
You'll also find a Glam Media nail file, Label M hair product, Toni & Guy magazine, Bottlegreen water, yshlondon.com printed canvas bag, Vauxhall Fashion Scout pad and Bic pen for making you show notes, yummy Ferrero Rondnoir chocolates, a sample of refreshing Teapigs fine tea, and a Beckham for Sport Relief graffiti tee.
You'll also find a Glam Media nail file, Label M hair product, Toni & Guy magazine, Bottlegreen water, yshlondon.com printed canvas bag, Vauxhall Fashion Scout pad and Bic pen for making you show notes, yummy Ferrero Rondnoir chocolates, a sample of refreshing Teapigs fine tea, and a Beckham for Sport Relief graffiti tee.
Images: Kristen Blow
Alice Palmer
Last year designer Alice Palmer debuted her knitwear skills down the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch runway. A year later people are still watching. The award-winning designer’s AW10 collection, “Batman,” reinforced her strong, distinctive talent.
Finding inspiration from the technologically advanced engineering of the Batmobile, Palmer brought strength and stealth to knitwear with her unconventional techniques. Mixing merino lamb’s wool and a silk and lurex mix in grey, white and black she created visually demanding pieces with a tactile quality.
A ‘fin’ motif appeared in puckering 3-D contours and triangle hems that sharply fishtailed as models stalked down the catwalk. The motif also appeared in a black and white jagged pattern on a variety of dresses. From an asymmetrical gown to a slouchy long-sleeved sweater dress, the pattern gave laid-back knits a structured edge.
A halter-style neckline that covered the shoulders and exposed the back was a highlight on several pieces. Daunting sliver spiked embellishments were both subtle in numbers and stacked on top of each other running straight down the back, side or curving around to the front of knitted leggings.
“Batman” is a one stop-shop collection of innovative design suitable for the closet of Gotham City’s coolest punk-rock princess.
Words: Maggie Dolan
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Cupcakes in the media centre!
If you’re at Fashion Scout you have to get yourself one of these cupcakes by The Little Cakery from the Media Centre – they are amazing. You’ll find it hard to just have one though!
Image: Leigh Keily
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Ada Zanditon
With a bruised, underworld palette her signature architectural detailing formed echoing waves and body con curves. Despite the moody colours the collection was far from gloomy with powerful injections of fuchsia pink and innovative texture use from the peacock feather clad box heels to stretchy jersey that adapted naturally to the body.
The most beautiful piece was a stunning full-length midnight purple gown, the heavy satin cascades rippling enchantingly as the model swayed down the catwalk. Overall a sensual, sexy collection of beautiful, wearable pieces with an ethical conscience.
Sponsored by construction giant Gleeds, Zanditon expresses her innovative design and ethical awareness through a range of organic and recycled fabrics. Zanditon has also created organic cotton bamboo t-shirts featuring two unique prints from which 10% of the profits will be donated to the Bat Conservation Trust.
Words: Christine Pettman
Images: David Coleman
Did you see the shoe?!
On the way into the Ada Zanditon show we bumped into famous fash photographer MT who we asked to take a snap on his Blackberry of the shoes… just in case you missed them. Mwah darlings!
Rachel Freire
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With an insanely big crowd milling and a constant stream of flustered make-up artists, PRs and assistants running in and out of the backstage door, Rachel Freire seems to be causing quite a stir. The doors opened, the media folk lunged forwards, and, once all inside, the show could start.
First to saunter down the makeshift catwalk and through the crowd was a sleek, black dress, with raggedy, matted braids of fabric cascading down from the shoulder as the model gazed at the crowd through black-as-night eyes. A long, lithe, rubber catsuit in bronze was up next, with precise black piping to define and sculpt the silhouette. Huge, oversized frills in the form of enormous shoulder capes and outrageously fabulous collars featured, as they stretched up towards the heavens in feathery, textured lace and, again, adorned with dangling braids. The star of the show was a vast, exaggerated, mirror ball-style shoulder piece, which momentarily transformed the model into a stunning, glittering warrior, as it twinkled and danced in the light. A sequinned, crystal encrusted silver veil continued the reflective theme, as did a nude bodysuit draped in miles of long, glimmering plastic strips, which traipsed and trailed delicately along the floor.
Excellent construction is clearly Freire’s speciality, as a number of expertly made headpieces dominated this accomplished collection. Echoing the shape of a laced up corset, one stretched and curved over the head like a towering horse’s mane, laced up with taught, cream ribbons. Another curved and swept up either side of the head, with cage-like laces strung across the face and tumbling down over the torso. Peach coloured suspenders held up rubber stockings in pewter tones, and sleek, structured heels finished off the look to a tee. Freire’s pieces were staggeringly beautiful and would have looked even more impressive on the runway. Time and time again, each look drew gasps from the crowd thanks to the breathtaking detail and costume-like aesthetic. Without doubt this collection was well worth the wait.
Words: Fiona Anderson
Images: Kristen Blow
Exhibition designers: Lidija & Dejan
Last year's Fashion Fringe winners Lidja & Dejan are making their Vauxhall Fashion Scout debut at this season’s exhibition space with an attention grabbing and unique collection inspired by Bauhaus.
AW10 sees the duo move away from their last collection to an edgier, younger and more body conscious look, while still holding on to their luxury roots. Deep violets and luxurious silvers sit alongside pale tones and hot pinks.
Having honed their craft at Alexander McQueen, Preen and Roksanda Ilincic the duo have a wealth of experience, which is evident through the use of innovative techniques. Tight silk elastics in this form-fitting collection do not restrict the wearer. Must have items include the ruched silk leggings, which have been generating buzz all over blogs and twitter pages since being displayed. The collection already has stylists queuing up to get their hands on it and their bodies into it.
Words: Kelly Morris
Images: Ljiljana Pajovic
Images: Ljiljana Pajovic
Exhibition designers: Viking Wong
Fresh from graduating from London’s LCF, bright young thing Viking Wong takes his stunning debut ready-to-wear collection for AW10 to Vauxhall Fashion Scouts exhibition space.
The collection is based around the theme of “a work in progress” focusing on the steps behind a finished garment. Inspired by unfinished pieces and their imperfections Wong creates strong tailored pieces and using their imperfections to demonstrate their beauty. The collection is elegant and wearable.
This is Viking Wong’s first time at Vauxhall Fashion Scout having only graduated a few months ago. He describes the whirlwind as “very hectic… After we finish here it’s I’m on to Paris with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. I’m just trying to generate enough interest and see what the press reaction is and hopefully the buyers will come!”
Viking Wong is a name to remember having recently made the final five at the Gen Art Styles Vision Awards in the Avant Garde category. Expect big things in the future, Viking Wong is one to watch.
Words: Kelly Morris
Image: Ljiljana Pajovic
The gossip at Rachel Freire!
Lara Solangon and Jana Andjelkovic, Fashion Promotion students at UCA Rochester
"We could start a rumour that a model was so drunk at Caroline Charles she fell off the runway"
Images: Leigh Keily
Backstage at Ada Zanditon: make up artist Rachel Wood from AOFM
What inspiration did you take from the Ada Zanditon collection when creating the make up look for the show?
"I kept it really simple, usually I have a story or theme but I went with the texture of the clothes this season. Ada wanted it really clean and beautiful, drawing on the fabrics in fuchsias and deep plums with a metallic sheen. There is a strong lip I created by mixing various lipsticks from Benefit, who are sponsors, and added a frosted eye shadow in it to create a reflective texture. It also appears to look like the opening of a flower, as there is a almost tye-dye, painted look to some of the clothes. The eyes are clean and icy to reflect the winter season."
Why do you enjoy working at London Fashion Week with Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
"What I love about London and Vauxhall Fashion Scout is it's where the emerging talent starts and partnerships with the Academy of Freelance Make Up allows new make up artist to showcase their talent and be more experimental. I am part of the Academy of Freelance Make Up, and I love the experimental freedom of working with Vauxhall Fashion Scouts and the vibe is really relaxed and fun."
What are the emerging make up trends for Autumn/Winter 2010?
"There is a really casual look, like unkempt bushy brows - think Brook Shields before an eyebrow wax! But with beautifully buffed, ethereal looking skin and similarly in New York as well they want it to look like the models have done it themselves, very rough, edgy, and almost a little Eighties in that way."
Words: Christine Pettman
Image: Eddie Blagbrough
Words: Christine Pettman
Image: Eddie Blagbrough
Say hello to our Bottlegreen competition winners!
The first VIPs to arrive at The Freemasons' Hall this morning were Maggie Woodward and Catriona Macduff, our Bottlegreen competition winners. I caught up with them in the catwalk hall to find out more about their experience.
"We have never been to fashion week before and always wanted to go. We have been so excited, it has gone beyond what we thought fashion week would be like. We are having such a good day, we have just had a tour of the building and got to meet some lovely people."
They won the opportunity to see all the shows on one day of their choosing during the jam packed week - and as fans of William Tempest they choose today. A very wise decision as the guest list is packed with even more VIPs.
Vauxhall Fashion Scout sponsor Bottlegreen make delicious, award-winning cordials and posh soft drinks. Our favourite's the fruity pomegranate and elderflower water.
Words: Emma Drinnan
Image: Eddie Blagbrough
FAD
Winner: Rasa Abramavicciute, Middlesex University
First runner up: Alice Jane Hutton, DeMontfort University
Runner up Rebecca Solity, DeMontfort University
Vera Thordardottir, Istituto Marangoni
FAD (Fashion Awareness Direct) is a creative charity supporting young people to bridge the gap between education and industry. They work with students through secondary school to university and offer a realistic insight into the fashion industry which integrates art and culture in fashion design.
I spent last night at the FAD show where 14 finalist selected from over 100 entries were showcased. The Judging panel included 20th Century and contemporary fashion curator at the V&A Sonnet Stanfill, Harrods fashion buyer Elizabeth Mcluskie, Vauxhall Fashion Director John Wolford and previous winners Ana Belen Merono as well as David Koma.
FAD challenged students across the UK to explore the concept of memory to create a future fashion legacy. Each designer had a mini collection of two outfits within the brief of ‘Traces’. To reflect the diverse background of each student, one outfit was designed with a collective memory in mind the other a personal one.
Thankfully my favourites were in the final four, a Special Mention went to Vera Thordardottir from the Istituto Marangoni, her jellyfish looking skirt wobbled with every move, recycled fabrics with Tyvek film paper and silicone. She won a placement with William Tempest.
Runner up Rebecca Solity from DeMontford University showed peasant ruffled layers dresses with faces printed all over in cream and pale murky green. Billowing fabrics restrained with a wide waited belt with large side pockets. She has won a work placement with Jonathan Saunders as well as £1000 prize.
First runner up was Alice Jane Hutton from DeMontfort University who showed shoulder padded graphic printed cropped silk tops. The petrol purple and creamy green check prints with black and white marble effect leggings. Oversized Perspex jewellery and headband bow. Hutton won a placement with Paul Smith and £1,000.
The final winner was the well deserved Rasa Abramavicciute from Middlesex University with Aboriginal inspired textured graphic prints and patchwork rug effect dress. Both dresses and jacket were In earthy tones of brown and grass green. Abramavicclute won the coveted placement at Vivienne Westwood and £2,000 prize.
All 14 finalists did an outstanding job as they had approximately two weeks to make the outfits and it was refreshing to witness the raw talent that the fashion colleges of the United Kingdom have to offer. I look forward to seeing more from these designers, hopefully they can follow in the footsteps of Ana Belen Merono and David Koma.
Words: Emma Drinnan
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Exhibition designers: Silja Manninen
The exhibition space here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays host to some of the worlds most exciting and talented young designers, among those is London based Silja Manninen.
Her collection for AW10 is inspired by bondage and restriction. The silky fabrics and loosely cut dresses contrast beautifully with ropes, which twist around the body and catch the eye the moment you enter the room. For this season Manninen has introduced Perspex moulding to her designs and a new accessory she calls “the breast visor”, a piece to be worn over a kaftan to define the shape of the body.
Colours used in the collection are striking with Manninen dying the fabrics herself. Signature colours, pink, red and nude tones sit alongside sharp acid yellow, which she has used to cut through the other colours. The collection is feminine and elegant, yet edgy. Silja Manninen is currently stocked in Coco de Mer in London, LA and New York.
Words: Kelly Morris
Images: Ljiljana Pajovic
Images: Ljiljana Pajovic
Working away in the media centre...
Journalists and bloggers working away at lightning speed on the Dell laptops in the media centre!
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