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Monday 20 September 2010

Fashion Mode Catwalk Review : James Hillman


Robot vocals and an electro beat introduced this menswear collection, as the first model walked onto the catwalk with a stiff drone like direction. Hillman used starchy grey tailoring fabrics, crisply cut with understated but intricate detailing. Tiny fang like collars were sliced out of immaculate shirts, a technique that was repeated throughout on neatly slit pockets. Crushed jersey t-shirts with asymmetric cuts softened the collection, layered under biker Jackets, more traditional blazers and waistcoats. It seems the young designer took pre-existing menswear silhouettes and made ever so slight but effective edits; a simple slit here and distortion of proportion there. A personal highlight were the organza pieces, from an sheer almost boat neck (men's) shift dress to a skeletal pair of dusty grey knee grazing shorts. I particularly loved this use of androgyny and lusted after a white shirt with delicately thin sheer sleeves and a crescent cut-out where the organza met the stiff white cuff. A Triumph for Hillman's London Fashion Week debut.

Words by Lara Angol
Images by Alex Fynn O'Neill
Illustrations by Vic Riches