NEWS| AW13 Private Orders and Sample Sale

Ten Fashion Scout designers are holding a AW13 private order evening and sample sale on the 9th April. Running from 6-10pm at Beach Blanket Babylon, you'll be able to purchase A/W13 pieces and samples from the following designers:

Eudon Choi

Patrick Li

Kirsty Ward

Danielle Foster

Alice Lee

David Longshaw

Shao Yen

Eleanor Amoroso

Claudia Ligari

Ming Pin Tien

Jennifer Morris

Manuela Dack

EXHIBITION| Patrick Li FEB'13

Chinese born, London based designer Patrick Li graduated Business Studies at the University of Brighton before going on to take an MA in Womenswear at the prestigious Royal College of Art. He worked with designers such as Victor & Rolf and Chalayan before launching his own brand in 2012. Fashion Scout caught up with him at the exhibition.

What do you think of Fashion Scout and the opportunities it provides as an international showcase?

It is a great platform for emerging designers to integrate with the media and offers extensive support for creatives. There is almost a recognition that comes with being part of Fashion Scout. I feel like it really helps to guide young designers.

What inspires the fusion of mechanical and organic elements in your design?

I like to think of it as my design aesthetic, I like geometric shapes and striking graphic lines. It is something that I incorporate into my choice of materials, such as the use of leather and wool, something soft against something hard. 

What were your main influences for this collection? Do you design for a particular woman?

I was inspired by the 'Shadow Catchers' exhibition at the V&A. It showed camera-less images that had been exposed to the light. The image of light coming through the darkness gave a strong, impactual and sensual effect. When I began gathering my inspirations I didn't have a woman in mind but as I developed my ideas I started to think about the potential owner of the garment. This really helped me balance out creativity with wearability.

Interview by Darcie Thompson-Fields. (@DarcieTF)

Images by Siobhan Kerrigan (@SiobhanKerrigan)

CATWALK| Ones-To-Watch: Patrick Li FEB'13

Images by Christopher Dadey
www.christopherdadey.com

Ones to Watch: Patrick Li AW13 Catwalk Show from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

COLLECTION| Ones to Watch: Patrick Li FEB'13

We were quick to showcase Autumn/Winter One to Watch Patrick Li post-graduation, so it may have come as no surprise that he features in our pick of the future’s best.

For next season, Li departs from the clinicism of Spring/Summer’s neon-accented white, and explores the tonality of 19^th century ‘Shadow Catchers’, a photographic technique preceding negative film, and in doing so encapsulates the drama of the late Victorian’s supposed “virtue” and sullied interior.

Still riffing off previous seasons’ architectural framework, the development for Li Autumn/Winter was in the devoré velvet draped from Li’s linear planes.

This season’s motion suggested emancipation from Spring/ Summer’s starched tabards, and if you think Victorian drapery could look dated, the sequined spliced panels evidenced Patrick Li is anything but. Shoulders were sharp, and where light could be found in the shadows of the sepia-palette, modernity shone- either through the lustre of those prismatic panels, or in the polish of leather jackets, and trousers' immaculate sheen.

Sara McAlpine

Images by Kris Elliott (@KrisElliott)

BACKSTAGE| Ones to Watch FEB'13

With Fashion Scout's Ones to Watch winners Patrick Li, Yeashin and Yulia Kondranina showcasing their three new collections at 12:30 today, backstage was well and truly a hive of activity.

“It's going great,” said Rebekah Roy, the show's stylist. “It's a first show for them so I think they're a little nervous but the clothes are extraordinary. It'll be a really great show this season.” She continued to explain how she finds “everyone really helpful, really professional and each year I find we up the ante. It becomes stronger and stronger.”

“It's more dynamic this season and there are more interchangeable pieces,” One to Watch winner Patrick Li said about his AW13 collection. On her new collection, Yeashin stated how “I want it to look very cute but luxurious. This season the inspiration was Korean traditional wood furniture and David Hockney paintings.”

When it comes to hair and make-up due to the creativity of all three creations, both take a relatively simple approach so as not to take anything away from the garments themselves. “The hair is glossy, shiny and tight in a very low ponytail,” explained Toni & Guy's head of hair, Silje Vincent. “Because the designers are so different, we have to keep it simple.”

Only a matter of hours away now, the Ones to Watch show is set to be an exciting one.

Words by Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Images by Kris Elliott (@kriselliott)

NEWS| Fashion 156 The London Fashion Week Preview featuring Fashion Scout

A number of Fashion Scout designers have been featured as a part of Fashion156's A/W13 preview issue. The work of Timur Kim, Nova Chiu, Heohwan Simulation, Eugene Lin, Yulia Kondranina, Patrick Li and Apu Jan all make an appearance, and give a real taste of what we can expect over the Fashion Scout London showcase. From floral prints to black knitwear, geometric design to fringed embellishments, its clear all of the designers have created unique and personal aesthetics through their work.

All of the above designers will showcase their AW13 collections on the catwalk between the 15th and 19th of February at our Freemasons Hall.

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Images from Fashion156.com

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW| Ones To Watch designer Patrick Li

Having completed his MA at the Royal College of Art last year, and working under the guidance of Hussein Chalayan, and Viktor & Rolf since then, Patrick Li's transition from graduate to designer behind an established-label is well underway. We were quick to spotlight Li's talents with our annual Graduate Showcase, and now the young designer is recipient of our acclaimed 'One-to-Watch' title, receiving support in the Fashion Scout funded showcase alongside fellow 'Ones-to-Watch' Yeashin and Yulia Kondranina. We spoke with Li ahead of his OTW show to talk his "precision aesthetic", and what to expect from the forthcoming showcase.

Your previous season's work was a synthesis of contrasts- the linear contributing to a fundamentally feminine silhouette, and your selection of colour- is working with these contrasts something we can expect to see this forthcoming season?

Yes, I am working with geometric shapes and linear silhouettes this forthcoming season. There are quite a lot of contrasting materials and graphic elements, these are the essence of the brand and something I would like to explore more. 

Talk us through your points of reference for Autumn/ Winter; is there a particular girl or body in mind, or is your design process connected to more abstract roots, as in a particular art or even object?

I started this collection by looking through the visual references from a V&A exhibition 'Shadow Catchers'. I enjoyed that exhibition a lot, especially the work of Gary-Fabian Miller. The singular lighting objects are so impeccable, yet sensual simultaneously. I used the lighting coming through darkness as the initial colours and mood for the collection. I have also looked at architectures and interiors designed by Zaha Hadid's. I find that the organic and bold structure and lines of the buildings very intriguing. I then started to develop the collection from there. I don't have a particular girl in mind when designing this collection, perhaps the references I gathered are abstract but eventually I got to translate the ideas into wearable garments. 

In our previous interview you said that sampling fabrics and details in keeping with your graphic aesthetic was your biggest challenge. Have you met any other challenges leading up to your One to Watch showcase?

Time is always an issue, there wasn't much time between SS13 and AW13. There are lots of time consuming things to do apart from making the collection. ie, answering emails, running errands... I need some angel interns! 

What do you feel you can take from your Fashion Scout experience, and where the One to Watch platform will take 'Patrick Li' the brand?

Fashion Scout is an important platform for new designers like myself, I had my first taste of the real industry and the business with Fashion Scout, I received a first order for my debut SS13 thanks to the support and exposure from the Fashion Scout. Ones to Watch will definitely give more exposure to 'Patrick Li', press is crucial.  

Interview by Sara McAlpine, edited by Cass Gowing

Photos of Patrick's S/S13 collection

ANNOUNCEMENT| Ones To Watch Winners Feb13

Fashion Scout are pleased to announce the Ones to Watch winners for Feb13: Patrick Li, Yeashin and Yulia Kondranina. 

Chinese born, London based, Patrick Li featured as part of Fashion Scout’s Graduate Showcase and has since been snapped up by Joyce. After gaining experience under both Hussein Chalayan and Victor and Rolf, Patrick has developed a signature crisp fresh style, epitomising the youth and effortless modern elegance.

After being awarded the Most Creative Student at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards and selected by Vogue as one of the best fashion graduates of 2011, South Korean YEASHIN went on to create her own charming label. Inspired by the juxtaposition of 1960s England and traditional Korean outfits, her collections inject a sense of humour into her myriad coloured pieces.

After graduating with an MA from Central Saint Martins, Yulia Kondranina presented her elegantly gothic graduate collection during London Fashion Week. With a focus on promoting the concept of handcraft coupled with a love of intricacy, Yulia’s heavily woven, sculptural garments tell a dark romantic story.

The Ones To Watch showcase is internationally recognised for presenting creative talent from both British and International designers to a global audience and is one of the first places to see the very best in new design talent.  

Fashion Scout Director, Martyn Roberts on the announcement: “This season we are excited to present a diverse range of new talents to the market. Ones To Watch has always been recognised as a launch pad for next generation of designers, and our selection celebrates some the most innovative new designers from both the UK and around the world.”

This season’s esteemed Selection Panel included Hilary Alexander, Jessica Bumpus of Vogue.co.uk, Hannah Emslie of Selfridges, FS alumni and former Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge, acclaimed stylist Rebekah Roy,  Fashion Scout Founder and Director Martyn Roberts and FS Talent Scout Charlotte Gunstone.

The Ones To Watch showcase will take place at Fashion Scout this February. 

Images: Patrick Li, Yeashin and Yulia Kondranina

EXHIBITION| Patrick Li S/S13

Exhibiting his new collection in the VFS exhibition space, MA Womenswear Royal College of Art graduate Patrick Li talked us through his simple, yet stunning S/S13 collection. Having gained experience under both Hussein Chalayan and Viktor & Rolf, this Chinese born, London based designer knows how to give architectural lines a real feminine touch.

What inspired your S/S13 collection?

I really like minimal, graphic lines so I looked at early Cubism in the 20's and 30's. After that, I did line drawings and developed it from there. I really wanted to use contrasts, whether that's between something organic and leather or something soft against something that's quite hard.

Do you design with someone in mind.

I imagine my muse would be someone like Emma Watson, someone who's young, chic and aged early 20's to mid 30's. For these pieces, I wanted to make something that's commercially viable but is something interesting at the same time.

Is finding that balance between selling and standing out difficult?

Yes, it's really hard. I've done show pieces before that were pure creativity. I didn't need to think about the customers or what people would feel comfortable wearing. For this collection though, I've particularly drawn attention to wearability and how it looks on the body.

What did you find challenging with this collection?

They all have a simple silhouette, but in terms of the combination of materials and the details to make everything clean and precise, that was the challenge. It took me a good four months to complete.

What about the future of the brand?

I really want to carry on working on my own collections. I don't have any inspirations for the next season yet but I think I'll stay with the really clean, graphic lines. I feel I've found my style and aesthetic now.

How has VFS as a platform helped you?

It's guided me every step of the way, it's a brilliant start. It gives such an amazing experience for newcomers.

Text by Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)
Images by Rebecca Andrews

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS13 | Patrick Li

Patrick Li started his career having completed a fashion design and business studies BA at the University of Brighton. Moving onto the MA Fashion Womenswear course at the Royal College of Art, he graduated just last year with experience working with Hussein Chalayan and Viktor & Rolf.

Chinese-born London based designer, Patrick Li was featured as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Graduate Showcase last season where his collection inspired by the photography of Edward Burtynsky gained recognition. Combining elements of organic shapes with mechanical structures, the Patrick Li brand aesthetic is focused on giving a feminine touch to architectural lines.

The RCA graduate will be one of many talented designers showcasing their work as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s exhibition during London Fashion Week from September 14 – 18.

By Vanessa Omoregie, @wewearblack

Images, VFS.