After being tipped by Vogue’s Jessica Bumpus as one to watch out for this season, Sabina Bryntesson’s Spring/Summer ’13 collection was highly anticipated. Backstage before the show, the Central Saint Martins graduate told VFS: “[The collection] is a continuation from my MA collection, but with a more Sunday, religious feel.” The cohesion between this collection and Bryntesson’s A/W ’12 collection was immediately recognisable as black conical caps with prominent peaks bobbed down the runway. The colour palette was made up largely of black, white and grey, stirring a monastic mood. Equally, the starch material used to construct garments roused connotations of religious dress. The monkish mood was lightened with bursts of lemon yellow and blue. In terms of structure, the collection was simultaneously simple and dramatic. Voluminous sleeves, large collars and stepped hems created a powerful silhouette. Soft, sheer feminine dresses were layered beneath dignified, high neck tunic-esque pieces.
After the short catwalk, models arranged themselves on platforms for a static exhibition, allowing the audience to appreciate Sabina Bryntesson’s craftsmanship at a closer look. Rolled hems and thoughtful pleats added attentiveness to the collection. Finally, the matte makeup and effortless ponytails sitting beneath Bryntesson’s pointed caps became increasingly visible as models stood poised for admiration.
Text by Jennie Watson
Images by Rebecca Andrews
Images by Rebecca Andrews