Bernard Chandran captured the
essence of the modern woman at his AW14 showcase. Chandran translated an
aesthetic clearly harnessed in menswear to create sophisticated, feminine
silhouettes. The show opened with the illusion of a three piece suit which
revealed itself to be an elegant all-in-one. “It’s all about the one look”
explains Chandran, “the woman could be running the country or being a
housewife… The garment speaks for itself”.
The essence of menswear worked
into the finer details of Chandran’s statement pieces. Fuschia cocktail dresses were granted a
masculine edge with waistcoat detailing whilst floor length leather coats
communicated the authoritarianism of a modern and empowered woman. Chandran
moved away from androgyny by innovative exploration of the breadth of freedom in
women’s fashion. Traditionally masculine shapes were softened by a peplum
lining or floor length, fitted sequin skirt in opulent golds.
Boasting a plethora of
prestigious clients, Chandran is renowned for bringing the lens of a vibrant
cultural background to his designs. Handwoven brocade was combined with
leather and tubing to modernise a traditional print. The influence of the
orient was clearly at work in a colour palette of fuschia, tan and cobalt blue which conveyed the vibrancy of the east. High collars and linear zips evoked
Chinese kimonos which were modernised through combinations of contemporary
fabrics. The designs thoroughly explored the many guises of the modern woman –
shifting from high powered business woman to cosmopolitan socialite, Chandran’s
vision was encapsulating.
By Lydia Smyth. (@LydiaRoseSmyth)
Photography by Oscar Scar