COLLECTION| Renli Su AW14

After featuring in Fashion Scout’s Ones To Watch show last season, Chinese designer Renli Su is back for another season.

The designer’s AW14 collection follows on with her love of texture, combining eclectic and international blends of fabric to create a rustic, traditional feel. Since showcasing her SS24 collection on the catwalk last season at Fashion Scout London, Su wanted to do something different and today she hosted a presentation in the grand Vestibule at Freemasons' Hall.

“This time, we tried a different way of presenting,” explains the designer. “My fashion is kind of raw, so a lot of it is hand work that takes a lot of time so I want people to see the detail and the textures in the fabric.”

Inspired by the work of Brazilian artist Mira Schendel, Su has focused her attention on merging femininity with oversized silhouettes and geometric designs. With a neutral colour palette of earthy white, soft grey and ivory a bold dash of terracotta stands out without throwing the collection off balance. The designer introduced some  of her technique and fabric to her designs this season using handmade organic Indian linen called Khadi, blended with organic wool and linen from Ireland.

Thrilled to be back at Fashion Scout for another season, she says “last season was my first time to show and it got some very good reviews in the press. If it wasn’t for Fashion Scout, I wouldn’t have that kind of opportunity!"

By Lia Stoke, (@LiaStokes).

Photography by Oscar Scar, (@OscarScar502), taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1,(@PanasonicUK).

BACKSTAGE| Renli Su

The TONI&GUY team are hard at work for Renli Su’s debut show at Fashion Scout this afternoon. At the heart of this collection is a unique combination of Indian handmade linen with organic fabrics from Ireland. Stylists are seeking to reflect this in the hair, “We’re trying to project the organic feeling of the clothes into the hair by combining two elements”  Daniel de Angelis explains. “Strength is will be reflected in the ‘peek-a-boo’ plait at the front of the face whilst the long waves capture the youthful and free vibe of the clothes”. Stylists blow dried Label.M body mousse into the hair to achieve the volumised and textured finish. A spiral wand was then used to create natural looking waves which maintained the distinctly untechnical and earthy look.

Make-up was kept natural to in keeping with the organic theme which permeates the collection. Model’s cheeks were flushed with light colour and make-up artists strayed away from statement colours. Emphasis was placed on natural beauty with an earthy brown palette. Brows were groomed, filled in then rubbed off and eyeshadow was lightly applied to accentuate the eyes. To finish off the look, lips had brown undertones which a combination of shades to achieve a rusty pink

By Lydia Smith (@LydiaRoseSmyth)

Photography by Oli Savage (@OliSav) taken on the fashion forward LumixGM (@PanasonicUK)

FRONT ROW| Marina Hoermanseder AW14

Images by Jamik-Latif (@JamikeLatif), taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1, (@PanasonicUK). 

COLLECTION| Marina Hoermanseder AW14

French-Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder founded her brand at Central Saint Martins and showcased her graduate collection that captured an audience at Graduate Fashion Week. She showcases her AW14 collection at Fashion Scout London that featured elements of her signature style incorporated into sophisticated new styles that juxtaposed the hard and the soft.

A colour palette of muted nudes and greys was accentuated with bursts of deep mauve complimented the collection that brought together elements of fetish wear and feminine elegance.  Numerous buckles and fastening proved to be the staple point of the designer’s aesthetic with new takes on corsetry. Tactile materials are sculpted into sleek silhouettes where the models appear striking yet demure.

It is Hoermanseder’s techniques with working with leather that makes her un-missable and absolutely mesmerising to watch. A contrast of draping and structured detailing creates an effect that is unique to the French-Austrian designer.

The showcase here at Fashion Scout is a celebration of Hoermanseder’s ability develop and grow with her design process and is definitely one to keep an eye on.

By Vanessa Omoregie (@vnsssaa)

Photography by Lepa Georgievska (@Georgievskalepa)

STREET STYLE| Day Four at Fashion Scout London

Chantal, Student and Assistant at Sunday Times Style

Issyloco, owner of organiquer.com + Francesco Mangialasche, photographer

Jade Ellis, X Factor Singer + Annaliese Dayes, TV presenter

Nesley Kuhlow, Stylist

Akira, Guest

Anna from Bill + Mar

Hannah Kane- Editor In Chief of Phoenix Mag

Laura Potter, Blogger 'Tiny Twist'

Photography by Aimee Hall (@aimeehall_) taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1 (@PanasonicUK)

EXHIBITION| Kiev Fashion Days, Lara Quint AW14

 Lara Quint’s AW14 ‘Bushido’ collection takes inspiration from Japan and in particular it’s female warriors. Silhouettes are rounded and over-sized yet still retain a sense of structure. Quint seeks to convey “Phantasmagoric wild nature, kimono silk whisper and invincible power of spirit,” throughout her collection. This expression is achieved through sheer, starchy organza materials contrasted with fluffy, yet static weaved garments and soft quilted coats and capelets. 

The Bushido collection keeps to a strong colour palette of red, black, white and cream. These strong and contrasting tones are carefully chosen by Quint and are all relevant to different aspects of Japanese culture. Beige is the colour of rice paper, red is the symbol of blood and death, black represents Japanese calligraphy and outlines of engravings and white is the colour of Geisha’s makeup. 

Quints intention is to channel imagery of warrior women in her AW14 collection. Her innovative exploration of shape and silhouette in which we see oversized kimono style jackets teamed with slim cigarette trousers make for an authentic collection which showcases Japanese style with a modern day twist.

By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)
Illustrations by Katie Kamara (@KateKamara)

Images by Oliver Savage (@OliSav), taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1 (@PanasonicUK).

INTERVIEW| Zeynep Tosun

We caught up with Zeynep Tosun following her AW14 catwalk to get the low down on her designs and inspirations

Hi Zeynep, what are the inspirations behind your AW14 collection?

My AW14 collection is inspired by the idea of seventies silhouettes meets street style and sports luxe design. An example of this is teaming puffy jackets with emphasised shouldered dresses. I wanted to create an industrial feel within the collection, I was inspired by rusty metals so used these tones in my colour palette. Raw edges also gives my collection the industrial look that I wanted to achieve.

Do you have a favourite piece from your collection?

Yes! My favourite piece is definitely the dark printed puffy jacket, I love it!

This is your fourth season at Fashion Scout, how do you feel you have progressed since you  starting showing with us?

I get more and more sure of myself every season so I grow with each collection. I can see my development throughout each of my seasons collections.

What do you think of Fashion Scout as a platform for progression for emerging design talent?

Fashion Scout is great for new designers. It is the best platform in London and I am so grateful to be here!

By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)

Photography by Lepa Georgievska (@GeorgievskaLepa) taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1 (@PanasonicUK)

ILLUSTRATION| Little Shilpa and Backstage at Fashion Scout London AW14

Illustrations by Katie Karara (@KateKarara)

COLLECTION| Zeynep Tosun AW14

Zeynep Tosun’s AW14 collection ‘Oxidised’ encapsulates modern day street style and effortlessly combines it with classic seventies silhouettes, making for a stunningly chic collection. Sports luxe designs are rigid and streamlined with raw edges which make way for occasional fluidity in the form of wide legged trousers and a-line midi skirts. Each catwalk look is heavy in its contrast, offering both oversized and streamline elements which consistently complement each other with ease. 

There is an explicitly androgynous feel to this collection with key pieces including puffa jackets, turtle neck sweatshirts, oversized coats and high waisted trousers. Tosun pays great attention to detail within her ‘Oxidised’ collection, garments are consistent in their detailing with big belts, statement boxy bags with faux fur trims and block heel boots perfectly accompanying Tosun’s seventies, street style hybrid. Vintage oversized pom-pom hats complete with leather visors feature in every look. Fabrics add a tactile quality to the collection, leather and fur panelling, wool crepe and brocade all feature heavily throughout. 

The ‘Oxidised’ catwalk begins with an earthy colour palette of rusty, autumnal tones before delving into a blue haze with icy hues dominating the second half of the catwalk, strikingly contrasting the collection's warmer colour palette. Tosun’s exploration of lavish textures along with her innovative fusion of styles make for a beautifully luxurious AW14 collection which successfully encompasses classic shape and modern styling. 

Istanbul born Tosun, studied fashion design at the Instituto di Marangoni in Milan before gaining experience working as part of the Alberta Ferretti design team. With a fourth season at Fashion Scout now under Tosun’s belt, it is exciting to see what she will do next.

By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)

Photography by Jamike-Latif (@JamikeLatif)