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Sunday 18 September 2011

Backstage at Izmaylova Spring Summer 2012







Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden


Whispers of trains and luggage props at Izmaylova had circled the Fashion Scout team through the morning. Eager to see the source of these rumours, I headed backstage before the show.
Glamazon models in super-high heels wandered the time-travelling set: a train station from the forties it seemed, Moscow bound.
Hair was full-bodied, lightly curled, and expensive looking. I took head hairstylist Tim Furssedonn aside and he talked me through this opulent look:
“The look is very much effortless glamour; it’s not trying too hard. The clothes are quite full on, they’re very embellished, very high end, so we wanted to play the hair down a little bit. It’s a Kate Moss, very tousled kind of look.”
The most effortless of looks ironically often require those magic products. Tim let me in on which Toni and Guy label.m products he used to achieve those loose, tousled curls:
“We used the mousse to prep the hair, then some shine spray, misting it through the hair just to finish it off. And just before the show we’re going to ‘shush’ it out, so there’s a natural fullness.”
Complementing the looseness of the hair, head make up artist Lan Nyugen created an equally natural look using Body Shop products. Softly contoured faces, barely there eyeshadow and stained lips:
“The inspiration was a couture girl eating an apple, and we thought about the girl eating a cherry... Blotting out the lips so you’ve got a [berry] stain, then reapplying tint and lipstick, and fusing it in. The look is understated glamour really fresh, lived in make up. So the lines were smudged in to give a soft smokey eye, and using concealers to create skin contouring.”
Text: Natasha Slee