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| Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden |
This may all sound rather complicated, but
the clothes were far from that, and despite intellectual leanings these
garments are effortless and easy to wear, the concepts do not seek to alienate
and confuse. The first exit, a belted trench with contrast armhole inserts and
a layered storm flap detail, set the standard for what was to follow, as the
contrast insert detail reappeared at the knees on trousers and leggings.
Sportswear influenced pieces – a cross-front jacket with a hood, a lightweight,
fine knit hoodie, an oversized sheer shirt with a dipped hem – were executed
with a precise tailored finish and in luxurious grosgrain finishes, elevating
the garments from the expected casual aesthetic.
Gadhian’s tailoring background (the designer
previously worked on Savile Row), influenced the inclusion pin-stripe suiting,
the fabric unexpectedly incorporated into tailored bomber jackets that were cut
into the waist. “Yes, there are elements of tailoring, but I though about how
it would look if it were manipulated by the wearer” the Gadhian continued. The
designers artful understanding of cit and construction allowed for manipulation
across shirts – think curved button fastenings and slim collars - and double
layer hooded tops with a draped back feature.
The colour palette, in the main dominated
by washed out greys, soft powder blue and off-white shades, was lifted with
surprisingly saturated shades – a turquoise trench with contrast white buttons
was particularly noteworthy. Posthuman Wardrobe successfully bridges the gap
between avant-garde ideals and covetable wardrobe basics, melding London’s unconventional
aesthetic with control and academic rigor.
One to watch indeed.
Text: Victoria Loomes