Thursday, 22 September 2011

Ones to Watch MEN - Posthuman Wardrobe Spring Summer 2012

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden 
For Nimesh Gadhian, the man behind Posthuman Wardrobe, form follows function, and fashion collides with philosophy. Style is a product of these principles, not a starting point, and this ideology manifests in some rather unusual and surprising points of inspiration, as the designer explained backstage after the show. “It’s the science of sitting, looking at what happens to you clothes and your attitude when you lounge or sit. A scientific analysis of sitting.”

This may all sound rather complicated, but the clothes were far from that, and despite intellectual leanings these garments are effortless and easy to wear, the concepts do not seek to alienate and confuse. The first exit, a belted trench with contrast armhole inserts and a layered storm flap detail, set the standard for what was to follow, as the contrast insert detail reappeared at the knees on trousers and leggings. Sportswear influenced pieces – a cross-front jacket with a hood, a lightweight, fine knit hoodie, an oversized sheer shirt with a dipped hem – were executed with a precise tailored finish and in luxurious grosgrain finishes, elevating the garments from the expected casual aesthetic.

Gadhian’s tailoring background (the designer previously worked on Savile Row), influenced the inclusion pin-stripe suiting, the fabric unexpectedly incorporated into tailored bomber jackets that were cut into the waist. “Yes, there are elements of tailoring, but I though about how it would look if it were manipulated by the wearer” the Gadhian continued. The designers artful understanding of cit and construction allowed for manipulation across shirts – think curved button fastenings and slim collars - and double layer hooded tops with a draped back feature.

The colour palette, in the main dominated by washed out greys, soft powder blue and off-white shades, was lifted with surprisingly saturated shades – a turquoise trench with contrast white buttons was particularly noteworthy. Posthuman Wardrobe successfully bridges the gap between avant-garde ideals and covetable wardrobe basics, melding London’s unconventional aesthetic with control and academic rigor.

One to watch indeed.  

Text: Victoria Loomes