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| Joanne Hynes by Lucas Seidenfaden |
Tuesday saw the final day of womenswear shows at VFS.
The result? A jam packed schedule and an endless parade of accomplished and
assured collections. A La Disposition kicked of proceedings with ‘Mechanical
Failure’, a clever combination of complex structures and lighter-than-air
fabrics, which was, as designer Daniel Kinne observed backstage, “our most
successful summer collection”. This was swiftly followed by Elisa Palomino’ s
collection, which borrowed stylistic elements from whimsical Victorian
fairy-tale paintings and centuries old Chinese motifs to create delicate
dresses that echo a vanished way of life.
The Vestibule provided a suitably dramatic
backdrop for Inbar Spector’s designs. Dramatic silhouettes, rose gold and
metallic laser-cut leathers and acres for frothy tulle, dominated her
collection, yet the overall effect was punk tinged rather than saccharine
sweet. The leather story led
neatly onto Joanne Hynes whose eclectic colour clash was tempered by Sixties
trapeze shapes and quirky appliqué detailing, and plenty of leather. These
madcap creations were in stark contrast to Oliver Ruuger’s ‘sculptural
products’. Reworking the standard uniform of a stereotypical British
businessman (think umbrella, briefcase, bowler hat), Ruuger’s piece aim to
convey emotion, often “a feeling of fear or uncomfortableness’.
VFS veteran Georgia Hardinge presented a cubo-futurist inspired collection that
saw square box buns paired with considered geometric contours. The colour
palette – dominated by washed out pastels and faded greys – was lifted with
striking accents of orange. The focus on emerging talent continued with F.A.D (Fashion
Awareness Direct) where the overall Sabine Bindere made a statement with her
red black and white hooded dress.
Bunmi Koko presented the last collection of
the day. Her Sirens came clad in ocean inspired hues, the softness of floaty
kaftans anchored neoprene pieces and laser-cutwork. With Beverley Knight and ex
Sugarbabe Keisha Buchanan gracing the front row, the designer took her final
bow to a rapturous reception. That closed the womenswear shows…who knows what
MAN day will bring?
Text: Victoria Loomes