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Monday, 19 September 2011

Math - House of Evolution Spring Summer 2012


Photogrphy by Magdalena Golembiewska
The label name speaks for itself. MATH: refined, formulaic, minimal. The designer, known only as Shaz, trained as a graphic designer before becoming inspired by fashion through a girlfriend. His graphic background lends itself to clean lines and a controlled colour palette.

The oversized pieces oozed luxury, the silks, chiffons, and georgettes skimming the body and floating freely behind. A nude chiffon midi-skirt opened the show. Ruched at the waist in easy, drawstring-like gathers, it created a youthful on-trend silhouette. Paired with a grey marl oversized t-shirt, the look transcended both elegant and casual aesthetics.

Grey marl ran through the collection, on leggings, t-shirts and as accents on t-shirt dresses. The dusty pinks, pale teals, and sunset oranges were modern and fresh, reminding me of colour-blocking Jonathan Saunders. Subtle seventies vibes emerged in chiffon bat-wing sleeves on a royal blue playsuit and dusty pink t-shirt.

Tailored orange shorts and high-waisted tapered trousers felt very ‘city chic’: an accessible wardrobe for contemporary high-flying women. A bag too beautiful to use only for work was black and boxy, briefcase-like but simplified beyond recognition. A solid handle, perhaps plastic or wood, gave the slimline leather structure.

Out of the pale chiffon sea, a scarlet gown closed the show. The model appeared to glide down the catwalk under layers and layers of trailing silk: cape like drapes hung from the shoulder blades, falling into a flowing train.

Refined women by day need a little glamour come nightfall, of course.

Text: Natasha Slee