Phannatiq |
Tramp in Disguise |
CC Kuo |
Beautiful Soul - Photography by Magdalena Golembiewska |
We caught up with each designer involved in the Felicities Presents event.
Victoria Loomes on Phannatiq
Presenting her second collection, Anna Skodbo – the
diminutive designer behind Phannatiq – explained that “the collection is
inspired by London, mainly Hackney Wick. I love the broken bits of the city,
street art, rust…everything.” This love is translated into surprisingly
delicate prints that are laid over subtle tie-dye and bleach effect fabrics,
across expertly draped garments. “The urban landscape changes according to who
has been there last, street art is never ending. This time there happened to be
a lot of pink so that’s why I incorporated that into the collection.”
There’s an urban grittiness to Anna’s designs that’s
wholly intentional, and captures the raw and edgy aesthetic for which her
favorite city is famed. The relaxed shapes, dipped hems, slouchy hoods and
dropped armholes suggest a casual sporty vibe, an aesthetic that is in sharp contrast
to the sense of modern femininity that runs through the whole collection – a juxtaposition
that you feel encapsulates Anna’s persona to perfection.
All the pieces are made in the UK, from the printed
tights and leggings to the statement dress that was the centerpiece of her
presentation. Floor sweeping chiffon folds were printed in the collections’
signature print, the sheer and lightweight volume balanced by a leather bodice
with shaped interwoven straps and unexpected popper fastening details. “It was
my attempt at doing something more dressy”, Anna explained. Well judging by the
results, she should try a few more…
Samantha Farr on Tramp in Disguise
Hypnotized by psychedelic prints it was
hard not to be drawn in. As I wandered over to the Tramp in Disguise collection
the intricacy of intense digital prints became apparent. While stood gazing at
the pieces displayed, talented designer Sini Moilanen was kind enough to talk
me through her SS12 collection.
Inspired by birds of prey, like hawks and
eagles, aspects of these creatures were distorted and reconstructed upon
feminine dresses in delicate silks and cotton. The intensity of jewel colours,
in blue, green, pink and purple reflected the flecks of colour found in the
feathers of theses beautiful creatures. The Greek goddess Atemis and the
ancient Egyptians along with their bird headed god Horus acted as a muse,
offering divine inspiration as the designer created her iridescent garments.
One turquoise dress stood proud with its
tulip skirt, layered like feathers. The dress was pixie-like as the hem of the
short skirt ran into chiffon. Sini herself wore a pink and purple dress based
on the hawk’s eye. Hundreds of beady eyes stared back at me as we spoke. Next
to us, hung a kimono style dress in chiffon that fluttered with a green digital
feather plumage. The light material that joined the sleeves to the body caught
gusts of breeze and floated like wings.
Rosanna Cole on CC Kuo
Fashion moves across us. We gather inspiration from people
we pass in the street, our friends or even faded photographs of family members
from iconic decades. In a similar way CC Kuo, found her starting point for SS
12 amongst her mother’s wardrobe. One particular dress became the muse of the
collection.
‘I found a little black dress a few months ago,’ says CC
‘and also her vintage jewellery which reminded me of 60’s fashion icon -
Twiggy.’
CC’s collection is very wearable: trousers, a sheer shirt,
an elasticised shift in light weight fabrics and each matched with modern and
very chic tailored jacket. The sheer uplift of the juxtaposing solid blocks of
colour and layered jewellery print (her mother’s vintage jewellery) embedded
the retro feel from which the collection was rooted.
She feels it was her mother’s wardrobe that instilled her
love of fashion and perhaps encouraged her path. ‘My mother always dresses so pretty and she really likes to
dress herself properly. Similarly, the woman who wears this collection is also
‘stylish,’ says CC. A woman who ‘appreciates the edgy, sophisticated style and
believes in herself.’
Amy Lockwood on Funlayo Deri
Funlayo Deri is inspired by the masochistic world of
architecture: rigid structures, buildings and hard straight lines. She takes
her inspiration, studies it through meticulous tailoring, texture and handcraft
and subverts it on itself. Her garment constructions are essentially
deconstructions of her interests as hardened, masculine buildings become soft,
dresses with fine tailoring that compliments the female form. This is
highlighted by a silk shift dress with cut out sections around the neckline;
windows and lines in the building she has constructed. Folds beneath the bust
continue the rigid architectural theme but cascade into flowing lines.
Funlayo Deri is interested in contrasting opposites: The
hard and architectural against the feminine, stiff and soft, edgy and delicate.
She achieves this by employing a range of techniques and fabric, from stiff
organzas to delicate satins, and experimental textures. Funlayo Deri pays great
attention to detail with an emphasis on hand craft (a hobby of hers), minute
detailing and elaborately constructed fabric. She states that things that
require her to give them a second look intrigue her and she aims to earn this
reaction in her clothes. Indeed, the inspiration behind her last collection was
‘labour of love’. (Funlayo points me to a knee length fitted pencil skirt,
adorned with layers of folds that she individually hand-stitched. Her wide,
unblinking eyes say it all). This focus on binary oppositions and interesting
contrasts is a manifestation of her eclectic cultural background and
experiences. Funlayo was born in Nigeria, studied international business and
worked for a bank in Switzerland. She now divides her time between London and
Budapest.
Madeleine Ayers on Beautiful Soul
Notting Hill based designer Nicola Woods is the mastermind behind the Beautiful Soul range at the Felicities Presents designer showroom. I spoke to Nicola this afternoon to talk about the event and her new SS12 collection entitled: 'Summer Breeze'. The collection consists of heavily Japanese inspired prints designed for the first time by Woods herself, fondly named after member of her own family with a quintessentially British twist. A fusion of east and west if you like.
The brand, being multicultural in it's design and ethos has appealed to buyers from opposite ends of the globe, says Woods. She took one order “from Tokyo, which will be phenomenal”
How has the response been to todays Felicities Presentation at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
The brand, being multicultural in it's design and ethos has appealed to buyers from opposite ends of the globe, says Woods. She took one order “from Tokyo, which will be phenomenal”
How has the response been to todays Felicities Presentation at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
It's great...I've taken two seasons out of London Fashion Week in favour of Paris purely because my budget wouldn't allow me to do both so this is a really good way of being re-introduced into LFW. I love the feedback; it's the first season i've designed my own prints, so just for people to be able to touch, feel and then feedback it gives me energy then for the next sleepless night and weeks worth of effort.
This is your SS12 collection on display here isn't it...
This is your SS12 collection on display here isn't it...
Yes, I have two collections. I have the kimono collection where I recycle vintage kimonos, but I also have this collection which is Beautiful Soul London and this is my second season.