London College of Fashion graduate Min Wu, originally from Suzhou in China, came to the city to complete her MA in Fashion Design Technology after studying for her BA at the China Academy of Art.
Graduating this year, Min Wu's debut collection is titled ‘Schizophrenia’, because it was inspired by Studio OOOMS' Schizo Vase, as well as avant-garde artist Anthony McCall's Solid Light series. Using neoprene and viscose, Wu has created sculptural pieces that are dramatic yet wearable, and enhance as opposed to disguise the female form.
The pleated details seen throughout her collection are very much taken from that Schizo Vase, particularly in her half cape dress, where the gaps between said pleats appear almost translucent – splitting the mind in two as Wu intended.
McCall's influence can be seen in Wu's use of colour; the way she has hand-dyed her fabric to ensure it fades perfectly from dark to light and light to dark, and the rich purples and blues she has selected to provide a dramatic contrast against the otherwise white garments.
After absorbing the rich colours, pleated textures an sophisticated designs of the collection, Wu’s shoe design come as a pleasant surprise. Her moulded plastic heeled loafers are quirky and eye-catching- perfect for adding an edgy nineties vibe.
First of all are you excited to showcase with Fashion Scout?
It is a very exciting day for me, yes! I’m so pleased to be here.
What are you looking forward to most today?
I’m really looking forward to meeting as many people as I can and just talking about my work. I want to get my name and my brand out there- today is the perfect opportunity to do that.
You interned at Kirsty Ward and Giles Deacon, what essential skills did you learn with them that you still use today?
I learned so much at both design houses. At Giles Deacon, I worked in the studio with his team so teamwork and leadership were obvious skills that I developed. Giles and his team are all very talented people- it was a privviledge to work with them. At Kirsty Ward, I developed similar skills that helped me to develop further- both as a person and a designer.
What matters to you most as a designer?
I think inspiration is so important when it comes to designing. You have to be inspired in order to create something brilliant. My inspiration for this collection was artist Anthony McCall’s Solid Light series, where light evolves in a 3D space.
Who do you look up to when designing?
Kirsty (Ward) is particularly inspiring because I like her both as a person and a creative.
Describe your collection in 3 words.
Fresh, sporty, elegant.
By Georgia Hathaway, Contributor. Follow me on Twitter: @GeorgiaHathaway
Photos by Tram Nguyen, @tramnguyenp